A DAY AT "LE DUE SORELLE"

Is it still possible to get charmed by a small beach not more than 15 miles away from home? Yes, it is. This happened to me last Thursday, when I went to Le Due Sorelle's beach, with my brother and some friends. It's so strange to describe a strong feeling with something which has been always belonged to my memories. Nothing new, but still, astonishing...

Le Due Sorelle is the name of two twin cliffs, which look like two sisters praying (in Italy, every cliff, mountain, hill has been always named by some priest or so!). I've always thought that the name was because are twins, though. By the way, the beach is reachable in two deeply different ways. The first way is to descend from the Monte Conero. It's rather tough, but can be done almost by everybody. The trail is known as "Passo del Lupo" (Wolf's trail), and you can take it from Sirolo's cemetery. Well, I didn't tell you where is Sirolo, did I? :-)

The beach of Le Due Sorelle is below the Monte Conero, near Ancona. You can reach it either from Numana and Marcelli di Numana. Take the motorway, exit at Loreto (if you come from Southern Italy) or Ancona Sud (from Northern Italy), and then go straight to Numana / Sirolo / Riviera del Conero. Don't go to Portonovo, which is a beautiful bay, but on the other side of the mountain.

So... I was talking about Passo del Lupo. In case you are not a passionate walker or climber, but a lazy tourist (like me, sometimes...), you can choose to go by boat. It's 15 Euros, return fare. Timetable is approximately this: departures from Numana's harbour at 9 and 10; return, from Le Due Sorelle's Beach at 11.30 and 15. I recommend to stay until 15, unless you have small children, or the full board at the hotel. 15 pm is ok, because one hour after, the beach becomes shady (like all the beaches of Sirolo, which are covered by Monte Conero).

This option has a fairly positive aspect: the harbour is full of old fishermen selling already-caught fish. It could be an idea for your dinner when coming back: just ask...

When on the beach, leave your thoughts behind you, and enjoy. It's the only word I can say: enjoy the sun, the sea, the sound of nature. Think that the beach saw people working on stone caves, ships sinking in front of the cliffs, men crying during the stormy nights. But also birds, plants and herbs like those curios "spaccasassi", a delicious herb to be boiled and eaten with some oil and bread. Spaccasassi means "stone breakers", because this herb grows among the stones.

Well, would it be all for the day? Of course not, unless you don't have a gelato at Morelli's, in the old town centre (Numana Alta), with its wonderful chocolate. It's around 4 pm, nothing better than an icecream to get fresh energy and enjoy a siesta. At 5 or 6, Sirolo and Numana start to be crowded by tourists, local and non local ones. Enjoy the crowd, if you like, or leave for that time.

Last tip: for having a great experience, don't go there in mid August, expecially on weekends. You could be let down by the incredible number of boats and stupid people inside. Go there in June, July or September, when you can have an unforgettable swim, diving from the cliffs. And then, please, write me to say if I was wrong to be astonished...

In particular: The boat can be taken either from Numana or Marcelli. From Numana the journey is shorter and takes about 20 minutes. There is a guide, on a tape, which explains the coast through the loudspeakers (but only in Italian). The boat leaves at 9, 10, 11 and 12, and return at 11,30 and 15. I suggest to stay from 9 to 15, to enjoy the beach as much as possible. You can leave your car in the free parking area in front of the Harbour (soon in the morning, otherwise you won't find any place empty). The price of the boat is 15 Euros (which is rather high, honestly); you may decide to go on foot, via the Passo del Lupo (which can be taken near the cemetery of Sirolo); be careful and avoid it if you are not expert hykers. The trail takes about one hour to descend and half hour more to climb. Trek or sport shoes are necessary, and strongly recommended. A one-way ticket is 10 Euros.

More information at www.traghettatoridelconero.it (only in Italian).